SANGLA VALLEY : DREAM DESTINATION |
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Till the time our car was running on the dusty
road of Sutlej valley almost everything was
looking ordinary. Forget any cold hilly wind, it
was so hot that we had to switch on the car
AC. The flying dust of NH - 22 was not easily
settling around our car that was making a
tough negotiation with poor road conditions of Kinnaur,
the second least populated district of Himachal Pradesh.
The car reaches a small town named Karcham where the
national highway ends and from there suddenly magic
moment of Sangla valley starts. The landscape changes.
Even look of people changed and the weather too underwent
a change.
In the month of May the road is free from snow but a
strong wave of chill is ruling the air. The one way road that
runs at the height of 8700 mt is every driver’s nightmare.
The heart-stopping bent of the roads and sharp edge of
ridge are inviting danger every other moment. An unseen
cloud of panic is slowly camping in every heart among my
co-passengers. It is Kinnaur of Himachal under the shadow
of great Himalaya. It is that part of world where beauty
peacefully co-exists with death if one is not attentive while
driving.
Immodest it may sound but the fact remains that my plan
to visit this region of Himachal was more for its people than
its splendid beauty. I was tempted to look how polyandry
works in modern era. We Indians love to superimpose
mythology, legends with people and that often dominates
our thought while thinking about a place. Before packing
my travel bag I had read that Kinnaur is the land of demi Gods.
People here are half God and half human. People
here are considered the most beautiful in their physical
beauty. That might be a truth ages ago but now thanks to
various cross sectional relations with many other tribes of
hill a touch of Aryan-Mongoloid feature is presently prominent
in their face. Many reference of our epic say that people
here are cursed citizens of heaven and they roam here in
form of humans ! A reference like this is enough to make
one thrilled.
Known as Kinnaur and Kinnari habitant here are not
only exceptional but also bold in their social customs.
Claiming themselves connected with Draupadi of
Mahabharata a section of these people still have kept the
cult of polyandry where a single girl gets married to multiple
husbands who are bonded by blood as brother. Their
social structure is such that a baby born out of any such
relation is accepted as child of all men married to his or her
mother unless the mother herself reveals any name as
father of her child. With advent of modern education this
revolutionary cult is now limited with few tribes.
When one is in a land like that, it is sure of him to take
notes of the landscape, stone and wood made huts and people
who are simple by their nature but colourful in their culture.
My driver gives a tea break on the bank of Baspa, one of
the most beautiful mountain river of the world. We all got
the chance to get down from the car that we had boarded a
few hours back in morning. The haze before our vision is
slowly diminishing and the
Himalayas with an extraordinary
shape and appeal appears like a
mammoth structure. We are still
few kms away from Rakcham, a
picture post card village of Sangla
valley in Kinnaur. Our first night
in this valley of endless beauty
will be spent there.
Situated on the bank of river
Baspa, this small village of
Rakcham seems cut off from the
modern world. However the hotel
that I booked was simply the gateway
to Eden. The modest accommodation
stands almost over the
river. It is just bang on the bank of
Baspa and the running sound of
flowing water is so loud that we
have to shout to be heard. It is
more of sleeping with the river
than sleeping with your room
mate in Rakcham.
I removed the curtain of the
window for some sunlight and
what Isaw was breathtaking. The
panorama over the widow gave a feel that I am in a theatre
where wings are slowly parting on both sides revealing the
decorated stage ready to mesmerize spectators. The grand
show of Sangla is on.
It is late afternoon now.
A day in Sangla valley is slowly passing into history. Over
the iron bridge that is visible from my hotel room I could see
workers returning from apple orchards and a young girl
trying to organize her herd of sheep to go back home with
her. Sangla valley is Himachal’s one of the biggest apple
producing pockets. One of the finest apple of Himachal
named ‘Golden Delicious’ is grown here.
Soon sun sets over the mountain. It is twilight and the
setting is just too romantic here in Rakcham.
I have finished the steaming cup of coffee and have taken
a walk on the stony bank of river. It is evening though it is
softly lighted. Soon darkness invades the sky and in that
dark it is never suggested to go alone in thisremotest part of
India. So we returned to hotel and sat on balcony to enjoy
the symphony of water.
The small common balcony of my hotel offered another
spectacular view of the valley.
From here view of snow topped mountains was enlarged.
Soon darkness makes a gentle entry. Plethora of stars started
blinking in the sky. It is splendid now. The star crowded
sky and a moon almost full in size give us company. The river
without any break is playing an unknown yet loud symphony.
Soon in village someone puts off the last burning
lamp. Rakcham the village on the lap of Sangla is sleeping
like a child.
The next morning starts with an unbelievable experience.
Just over my window three huge snow capped peaks
are smiling. None of this was visible last evening. Now with
no fog and cloud cover they have made their presence felt in
giant form. On the snow bed of the mountains, sun light
was beaming and there was a magnificent interplay of
colours - blue from the sky, green from the valley and white
from the snow.
Only thing that one must do at this moment is a walk following
the alpine meadows leading towards the mountain.
So I put my jacket on and hit the road.
Early morning Rakcham is not that deserted.
There are men opening their tea stalls and women
already have started their daily work. Students are getting
ready to go to school and village seniors are enjoying an
early morning sun on their back. Even with all these activities,
serenity prevails in milieu and with every passing
minute snow peaks over the horizon are turning brighter. A
gate proudly announces that in 2008 this village was
awarded by President of India as an ideal village. All
around and specially on the bank of Baspa colour red and
orange are dominating. It is the colour of ogla, a local crop.
Have I seen a better mornings than this before? Does the
meaning of ‘Good Morning’ really hold a morning like this?
We finished our breakfast as fast as possible to take a ride
to Chitkul, a famed village just 26 km from Rakcham.
One can hire a sports bike with gear and cycle down to
Chitkul from here. Most of the foreigners do that.
Considering my physical fitness I have given up the idea to
cycle 6 km. So a lazy me rather has managed the best window
seat of a SUV.
The criss cross road that goes to Chitkul from Rakcham is
a fairy tale road to travel. Passing over the rocky landscape
of Kinnaur the road is shadowed by deep deodar and pine
nut trees. Stream after stream crisscross the road and every
single frame is giving an award winning photo opportunity
to one who knows how to operate a camera.
Chitkul is another village of Sangla, but it is no ordinary
village in any sense. This tiny village is the last village on
Indian soil before Tibet and from here the borderline mountain
that cuts India from China can be seen. In ancient
times this was the trade route to then forbidden Tibet. For
centuries men have walked on the route with bagful of
coral. pearls and spices.
Chitkul is nearly 90 km from Indo-Tibet border post .The
road is rocky, uneven and shadowed with deep pines but the
way is thrilling. Every few minutes from behind the deep
dark woods, the snow peaks of Himalaya smile. The sky
here is crystal and the water stream that comes down from
hill top is turbulent. The road to Chitkul can give any picture
post card a run for its reality. It is just what we see in
movies or it is just what we see in our dreams.
I park the car on the bank of Baspa the same river who
was my partner last night.
In Chitkul, Baspa is like an young princess. She is jubilant
and charming, yet elegantly decorated with nature’s ornaments.
Amazingly free from any pollution it’s colour is a
blend of blue, green and white. The river runs like a leopard,
breaks rocks on the river bed and its bank are lined
with colourful pebbles. The water stream is wider than
Rakcham. Its stone breaking sound is louder. On its bank
there was plethora of pebbles in multiple colour, size and
shape. Their variation of colour is flamboyant and looks
like a bed of gems from a distance. From here two great
Himalayan peaks Kinnaur Kailash of 6050 mt and
Jorkanden of 6473 can be seen.
I started walking towards the water and I slowed down
only at a point where beating sound of river whispered in
my ear to stop. I settled myself and looked over the mountains.
Sun is shining and its rays kissing every single piece
of pebble which is scattered on the bank of the river. The
deep forest on the other bank is slowly spreading a soft
shadow on the river. Few slate roof houses, temple and
apple orchards are plotted here and there to complete the
dream sequence.
Valley of Sangla is a full package of dream. It has all in its
basket. The Himalaya, the mountain river, craggy rocks,
the stony river bed, plantation of apple, peach and nuts,
Hindu and Buddhist temple and overall an exceptional
social structure.
As the departure time nears I started to get a feel that
Chitkul is engrossing me fast.It is now walking inside of
my heart.
Does a dream look more mesmerizing than a break like
this?
Travel Logistics :
# Rakcham is well connected by road from Shimla via
Narkanda.
# HPTDC still has no accommodation at Rakcham - so
book private hotel.
# There is no luxury here – you are to close to an
unexposed world.
# Carry good walking shoes and jackets - it is cold even in
summer.
# Take consent before you photograph common people –
they are generally very nice to tourists.
# Mobile network works.
# Night stay is not required at Chitkul though provision is
there.
This article was published in The Hitavada on 7th May 2017
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