Photos by Sumit Biswas and Somen Sengupta.

The 4-km walk inside of thick pine forest of Dhawrikhal where mystic sunlight plays hide and seek with you finally ends at the edge of a valley. There, before your eyes Kandoliya range of Himalayan opera pulls up its curtain to display one of its best snow-dusted massif.

If you are imaginative enough to draw a picture with your eyes you can figure out the massive peak before you which looks more of a four pillared courtyard than a normal peak - If that mesmerises you in the wild then your walk to this Chawkhamba point in Pauri is a success and a memory unforgettable for rest of your life.

The Garhwal region of Uttaranchal, mainly places of pilgrimages are dotted with some hidden places from where beauty of Himalaya is breathtaking. Many of those are badly over populated but still few of those are in the state of pristine beauty. Pauri, the small hill station near Debprayag at 1750 mt average altitude, is one of them.

In 1840, the wild hill slopes were first explored by East India Company and soon they set up administrative office here for Garhwal region. Though they never had a plan to make it another Darjeeling or Shimla but the dense forest and splendid sky line dotted with an army of Himalayan snow-peaks made them to develop the place. In 1864, American Episcopal Methodist Mission arrived here but failed to do much with local people in their religious belief.

Pauri as a town had a slow development and that is indeed boon for wanderlust. Till today, its near zero pollution and lesser unplanned urbanisation have helped the place keep its beauty intact.

You can spend your time in Pauri in two ways.

If you have a religion bent of mind then there are few temples worth visiting. These old temples are old and popular among locals. Without any archeological beauty, they still attract tourists.

There is one Nag Devi temple situated 6 km from Pauri inside the pine forest. Nanda Devi is the most popular deity worshiped in the region after Lord Shiva. The way to Lancedown is dotted with many Shiva temples. Near the Dewal village, there is a Laxmi Temple believed to be a thousand years old. Kyunkaleshwar Mahadev Temple, an ancient temple built in 8th century, is a popular attraction too.

If you are not in Pauri for pilgrimage, then be sure that you are standing in the grandest balcony of Garwal region to enjoy a collage of snow peaks dominated by the massive Chawkhamba and Gangotri peaks. At the slope of dark woods of pine, oak, deodar and blooming rhododendrons, the horizon of Pauri is like a canvas on which God painted its masterpiece with magnificent serenity of - the majestic Himalayas.

As soon as the morning sun rays kiss the snow beds, the range comes alive like a glorious cavalcade.The 150 miles long range of Garwal Himalayas overlooking the ridge of Idwal valley slowly appears before with Sumeru Parvat, three peaks of Bhagirathi range, Hati Parvat, Gangotri parvat, Trishul, Neelkant Parvat, Kedarnath, Brighupanth, Swargarohini, Bandarpuch and many more. If you are here on a very clear day you can even see Panchachulli range which is mostly seen from Kumaon region.

Every single peak has its own geological uniqueness and several stories of Indian epics and mythology are associated with them. If Sumeru parvat has its reference in Mahabharat then Gangotri has it reference in any of the Puranas. Beyond that these peaks have their own stories of various expeditions conducted since colonial times. All put together there is plethora of stores to listen.

The cynosure of this range is one and only Chawkhambha the squarish peak which is actually an assembly of four peaks. Behind the peak flows Gangotri glacier from where river Ganga originated from a place called Gomukh. First conquered in 13th June 1952 by Lucion George and Victor Russenberger, this 7138 mt peak is visible from many places of Pauri. Apart from Chawkhambha view point which is also a picnic spot now this range can be best enjoyed from GMVN and sunset point near army camp.

The unique looking peak looms large over the sky like a giant. It turns orange and then pale yellow in early morning if weather is clear. In afternoons, the entire range slowly turns white and prevails over the horizon till late afternoon.

After Chawkhambha the 2nd biggest attention drawer is 6596 mt Neelkantha parvat considered as the most sacred peak.

If this is your agenda of coming to Pauri then just take a seat of salvation before it. The peaks visible clear and large from here and in the solitude, your bond with the nature is established. Here, Pauri, the shadow of Himalaya, brings an automatic touch of spirituality. Even if that does not go well with you still its calm touch of peace is remarkable.

Evenings are mostly silent, with vehicles on the road below make the occasional noise. However, the clear sky offers a gallery of stars and if by chance you are here on a full moon it is simply magical.

Pauri local body is now planning to undertake construction of a unique 6 km long pathway shadowed with pink Japanese cherry blossom and maple street.The plan when executed will be an extraordinary addition to this already beautiful place.

Near to Pauri there is place named Ranshi where the 2nd highest sports stadium is situated.The place is at 2132 altitude and 2.5 km from Pauri.

Pauri is now also getting its place in adventure sports like para-sailing. For trekking in its picturesque forests and other places young folks are now frequently heading towards it.

TRAVEL LOGISTICS :
# Pauri is just 94 km from Rishikesh on the NH - 119
# The best place to stay is GMVN - Though luxury options are also available.
# GMVN online booking - www.gmvnonline.com
# It is better to take a nature guide while walking inside the woods.
# Do not venture out in night if not required.
# All temples are little far from the town - So be well informed before going there.
# Useful website : www.uttarakhandtourism.gov.in and www.euttaranchal.com

This article was published in The Hitavada on 11th July 2021.

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